她來了,請注目!不容忽視的主役配件─耳環報到!

接下來想介紹春夏的趨勢
今天從耳環先開槍
幾個禮拜持續觀測今年的Statement Earrings
預感很好~
先看看伸展台的主役耳環是statement到何種地步
這邊還要再插個話
阿兜阿的時尚網站非常熱愛使用statement這字眼,還常被說使用到貴陶休(是台語)
意思是: 抓人眼球(引人注目),表達自我/個性

上圖可以看到各大牌的在這波醒目外放的耳環上是怎麼樣各做文章,有些是部落風格、有些Geek、有些造型前衛,雖然各自簇擁不一樣的風情,不管怎麼說,在這季只要能垂到肩膀的耳環就是好耳環。品牌依序是Prozena Schouler、Jeremy Scott、Rosie Assoulin、Oscar de la Renta、Gucci、Emilio Pucci、Rodarte、Alexander Wang、Prada(左而右、上至下) photo:InStyle

接下來的部分就有點像是耳環科普(?)時間,要介紹一下各種類耳環的英文名字,現在耳環不像過去就針式、夾式、圈形、墜式這樣幾款普遍的分類,嚴格說起來這也算不上分類。像上頭的照片就都是穿過耳垂的垂墜款式,當然各自仍略有分別,以及後來很流行的掛鏈款式、扣住耳翼的款式…等等,將在下面這篇文有個清楚的介紹。

要注意的是因為這篇文在ELLE.com已經是2014年的文章,文中提及的品牌我還是有翻,請參考看看。

The Ear Cuff
Even if you're just beginning to dabble with alternative ear jewelry, chances are you've heard of the cuff: it tends to be the umbrella term for any earrings that embrace the side of the ear. What you'll learn here is that there are actually many sub-categories for the cuff, depending on the size and how they adorn your ear and hang. But for your primer, consider the basic cuff, a statement piece that touches and curves around the outside of the ear. Those who balk at the sight of a needle will be happy to know that many cuffs clip right on, no pierced holes required. To style, stick with simple studs. And as is the case with most of the earrings in this roundup, the rules of symmetry do not apply.
即使是才剛試水溫,想嘗試不同耳飾款式的你,勢必曾聽說過Cuff:環抱著耳翼邊的耳環款式的總稱。透過以下說明你會知道,根據大小,與各自裝飾、懸掛於耳的方式,cuff仍有不同分類。但對剛進階的你,首先考慮基本款的cuff,這樣特別又展現個性的耳飾,只是妝點在耳上並勾勒耳際輪廓,原本一看見耳針就裹足不前的人該高興了,很多cuff只用夾的,不需要耳洞。搭配cuff時,請選擇簡單的耳釘款式,並以本次篇幅中提及的款式來說,不適用成對搭配的習慣。


The Ear Wires
Ear wires require a pierced hole. Unlike the cuff, a wire back travels up behind the ear to hug it into place. The result is an ethereal, delicate floating effect. Choose a simple string of diamonds for a classic look with an edge, or, if you're in the mood for something more elaborate, opt for something similar to this lacy-looking Sara Weinstock earring. Either way, pair it with just one or two simple cartilage hoops, or nothing at all.
Ear wires需要耳洞,不同於cuff,線圈款式會穿過耳後使之固定,然而卻能創造出空靈、細緻的流線效果。選擇簡約的一列線形鑽石打造經典又前衛的感受,想要複雜細緻的設計,也有像Sara Weinstock這款蕾絲般圖紋的耳環可供選擇(左圖)。線圈款可單戴,或配上一兩個耳骨環,哪樣都好。
*ear wires就是用金屬線透過彎繞摺疊…等技巧做成的耳環,還可以比上圖列的複雜許多,不管他裝飾上了鑽石珠寶等等寶石,看耳環骨架是以金屬線纏繞彎折做成的,是屬於ear wires的範疇(點我點我參考,手作成品參考、Pinterest手作參考)。


The Wrap-Around Cuff
Consider this to be the ear cuff's more elaborate cousin. It comes in a variety of styles, like this ear jacket mash-up from Delfina Delettrez, but the general rule of thumb is that it wraps the ear. It may dangle a bit over the front, as well, or peek from behind. Keep any other embellishment to the barest of minimums.
這款式可以想成是cuff的變形版,他可以呈現多樣的造型,比方左圖這款Delfina Delettrez就混合了jacket的設計,但整體而言,他是披覆耳朵的設計,有時是懸在前面多了點,又或者,總能隱約看見後頭的部分,再極簡的款式也請選擇有些小裝飾的吧。


The Ear Chain
There isn't quite any other kind of ear adornment that is more fit for the modern bohemian. Don't be afraid to throw other earrings into the mix (or to wear one chain on each ear) in order to really speak to the festival-appropriate, pile-it-on aesthetic.
說真的沒有比這款更適合現代波西米亞風格的耳飾了,請安心的使用其他耳環來個混搭(或者兩耳各戴一個chain),來呈現這個適合節日慶典的浮誇美學。


The Band Cuff
The fun of ear bands is that you suddenly have the ability to stack and pile on hoops—all without taking a needle to your cartilage. That's right: These are pierce-free, and they generally fall at a more forgiving price point to boot.
Ear bands有趣就在於你突然有了層層堆疊的機會─並且完全無須針穿你的軟骨。沒錯,這些都不需耳針,並且要入手,他們大多落在還算可以接受的價格範圍。


Ear Jackets
Ear Jackets are the mullets of jewelry: Sweet, refined business in the front, unexpected party in the back. You get a peek at what's going on from behind because the earring's trademark is that the embellishment loops under to hug the bottom of the lobe. In the case of this Vita Fede earring, the effect is quite subtle. But Rihanna has been known to frame her lobes with cannabis leaves, one of the styles from Jacquie Aiche's more conspicuous line of jackets.
Ear jackets可說是珠寶界的mullets頭(穆勒頭):正前方是美麗優雅的造型,後方卻有著驚喜。因為這個款式的招牌就是在耳垂下方有著三環三線(x)環狀線(o),所以你隱約可窺見前後組合是怎麼樣的風景。左圖中Vita Fede這款ear jacket創造的效果較為精巧,而下圖Rihanna著用的這款大麻葉,正是Jacquie Aiche相較出名的jackets系列。

Rihanna with Ear Jackets, Jacquie Aiche(左);Rihannah with jewelries, designed by Jacquie Aiche(右)
















The Stud/Hoop
It’s a stud…but the back sweeps down in (half) a hoop. This earring can’t decide what it wants to be, and this identity crisis is our gain: The duality extends to meet classic with modern, edgy with pretty. Try donning it on just one ear, and style it with a collection of simple studs and hoops.
是耳釘款啊…卻從後面多長出(半個)耳圈,看來這款耳環還沒決定好他的路線呢,但這個認同危機正中我們下懷:複合式組合反而讓經典遇上摩登,前衛又美好。請只穿戴在一耳試試,並且簡單的與耳釘款和圈形款做出造型。


The Double Stud
Both Vita Fede and Dior have ushered in the idea that there is no reason for studs to be one-dimensional. In one of our favorite adornment trends du jour, those craggy earring backs that we've always resigned ourselves to have been replaced by earring—sometime even more substantial than what's shown in front. The result is utterly cool and still leaves room to play with plenty of other ear jewelry.
Vita Fede與Dior為我們引介了「耳釘沒道理只有1元空間」這個概念,身為現在受歡迎的裝飾風格,原本耳環背後總是凹凹凸凸,我們也從沒想過還可以成為另一個耳環 — 有時候還比正面的來得更有存在感。結果顯示是滿酷的,並且還有十足空間與其他耳飾發揮多樣創意。


The Single Earring
Too cool to have a twin, these earrings are such statement-makers that they don’t come in pairs: They’re unique.  They also can’t quite be categorized into just “hoop,” “stud,” or “drop.” They might come in the form of a small chain, an arrow that goes through the hole, or perhaps in the form of a delicate, gilded safety pin. Whatever your preference, there’s one guarantee: The result is totally unexpected.
我就是酷,不作第二人想,這個款式的耳環就是不需要成對作陪的自我主張者,如此獨特。這個款式的耳環很難硬分類到hoop(圈形)、stud(耳釘)或是drop(垂墜式)裡面,他們可能呈現是鏈式的,或是穿過耳洞的箭狀,又或者是做成細緻鍍金的安全別針。盡可擇其所好,因為他們都保證:效果斐然。


介紹完這幾種款式,大抵將耳環的派別摸了清楚,接著再看這些個款式在接下來的春夏、甚至一直到秋冬,將如何演繹各自的風情。
上排:Graphic hoop。先從左邊Givenchy非常非常誇張醒目的墜圈看起,中間是Versace的基本圈形,或是最右的Rag&Bone,簡潔的圈形,藉著小金棒穿過耳洞的簡練。這些款式的耳飾亦可見於Mugler、Isabel Marant。
下排:Pop Art--1960s瀰漫在本季,2016春夏幾何圖形的耳環這裡那裡到處綻放在伸展台上。Proenza Schouler鏡面效果上漆的羽毛,Marni的銀螺旋搭配60年代的代表女星崔姬的眼線(這種眼線畫法是Twiggy的標誌),Céline塑料漆亮質感的圈形。Missoni、Proenza Schouler、Marni、Céline(下排左到右),這樣的風格亦可見於Christian Dior、Loewe、Alberta Ferretti、Véronique Leroy、Roberto Cavalli、Versus Versace、Carolina Herrera。photo:vogue.fr

下面則是同為Vogue.fr的秋冬 2015-2016 jewelry trends,一樣可見這些耳環的出現,所以我也大膽猜想這些個主役耳環會貫穿這整年,還有你可注意到多家品牌Model都畫上了藍色眼影
圖:圈形鐘Céline、N個環Donna Karan、雙鏈Dior(上到下左到右) photo:vogue.fr

圖:幾何變形J.W. Anderson、60年代的圈形Marni、部落風格Ralph Lauren、ear cuffs, Balenciaga、貝殼扣耳環Giorgio Armani、Isabel Marant的單邊耳環(上到下左到右) photo:vogue.fr
大家有興趣的話可以去搜尋貝殼扣,就是會閃著多樣色光滿特別的扣子,英文名字很美叫做iridescent button,我有件衣服上的衣服就是真的貝殼扣,偏大又薄老怕他碎掉特別有印象,沒料想利用這種光澤特性做成耳環好美。

接著這裡是Vogue spring/summer 2016 trends,他們更幽默,這個trend叫做「撢肩膀」,這邊六張的品牌都已經出現過了,算是相當容易辨認,不曉得你可以指認出來誰是誰嗎?
photo:vogue

接著下圖有些品牌也出現過了,總是有點暗黑的McQueen,還在西班牙跳針的Dolce & Gabbana,雖然是60s風格但是有點星際宇宙太空人老片感覺的Marni,在pre-fall 2016文有提到因為春夏我沒有全看,只能這樣表面說說,我很推薦對有興趣的品牌去看看collection,還有評論是怎麼寫的,會很有意思喔。Alexander McQueen、Marni、Céline、Salvatore Ferragamo、Dolce & Gabbana、Kenzo(上到下左到右)
photo:vogue

呼~~~~~
這篇我想寫好久了,但因這種科普文(-_-")特別費神,存成草稿又放了好幾天才完成
昨天花了好大力氣才寫七八成,好想去按摩揉揉肩搥搥背喔QQ
耳環控、飾品控看到喜歡的就快備好貨了喔~~
PS:如仙戴這種誇張耳環都很好看喔,有興趣可搜尋魏如萱waa wei的臉書~~~



圖文來源:
http://www.instyle.com/awards-events/spring-fashion-week/fashion-week-trend-statement-earrings
http://www.elle.com/fashion/accessories/tips/g9023/earring-guide/
http://www.vogue.com/slideshow/13361369/best-spring-2016-accessories-trends/#1
http://en.vogue.fr/jewelry/runway-trends/diaporama/fwpe16-jewelry-trends-for-spring-summer-2016/23020#bijoux-diadmes
http://en.vogue.fr/jewelry/runway-trends/diaporama/fwah2015-the-jewelry-trends-from-fall-winter-2015-2016-fashion-week/19642#le-torque-tress-de-tods

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